Go Go Goofy-2 weeks of mayhem around the cape
Patagonia team riders Johnny Abegg and Belinda Baggs meet with Kuni and Angie Takanami for a week of swell and surfing in the Byron Shire. Story compliments of Angie Takanami / Surfers Eyes.
I remember merging towards the profession of surf scribe daydreaming up images of riding epic waves around the globe, clocking up hours on Indonesian boat charters, backpacking through wild landscapes, eating real local fare, getting drunk on cheap wine and filling up page after page in my journals. Ha Ha.
The reality is, I’ve found myself somewhere between domestic house wife/mother of two typhoon Takanami brothers and feeling the pain of surf magazine editors who spend endless days behind computer screens drooling over those perfect tube shots that come flooding in via digital cyber space. The truth is, sometimes I pray for the swell to drop. Only then can I surf. Maybe that’s why I have fallen in love with 2ft clean, glassy lefthanders that sneak their way through the beachies at Tallows and the Wreck, when the rest of the tube chargers are home sucking back coldies, finding time for their kids and partners, and wishing for the swell to pick up again.
The past two weeks I haven’t surfed. Well, I lie. I had one bodysurf. In two weeks… Or has it been longer? What day is it today?.… It’s been long enough. For the past fortnight, Kuni and I transformed into office workers of the sea, lugging our kids to the beach every day to shoot swell after swell with a bunch of go go gadget goofy footers.
With Kuni on stills, Mick Waters rolling video, a very special visit from Nathan Oldfield and the lefties running the show, we were all on 5am starts taking over the bay and surrounds like grannies at the Suffo on pension day. It was epic.
Slowly getting back into the water after an 11 hour birthing effort of her son Rayson, Patagonia Ambassador Belinda ‘Bindy’ Baggs threw herself back into the mix stepping up to the challenge of shortboarding, bodysurfing and logging in between breast feeding.
Resting a knee injury, partner Adam Kobayashi was content chillin’ on the beach with Rayson but did get out there for a family log session at the Pass. After watching her smash the lip on her shortboard, slide down the face of pitching waves at the Wreck bodysurfing and then hanging hips at Broken Head on her log, I think it’s safe to say that Bindy is Back. How exciting!
Ahh, Johnny B Good. My left hand wave checker guru and max chiller of all things going left. Not only did he surf so much I think his curls got wilders, but as always he juggled editing deadlines, blogging, a house without Lizzy and even managed to get behind the lens. Johnny your laugh is contagious and those smooth oily water pits suit you like green Cooper’s does the Takanamis.
And then there’s Jimmy Mac. Skilled with brush in fingers and board under feet, Jimmy was frothing like a grom at the constant swell and wasn’t afraid to let his surfing do the hooting. Jimmy is such an exciting, fun surfer to watch especially when throwing spray high above the lip throughout lightening fast turns.
Throw into the mix a few other names like Matty Chojnacki, Derek Hynd, Mike Jahn,Eiji Ishikawa and Nathan Oldfield, all who just happened to be out there doing their thang…and I remember the reasons why I moved to Byron Bay. Purely Inspiring. Not such a bad job afterall…
These are just some sneak peak behind the scenes pics, with more to come in various publications and a short Patagonia movie on the way. Stay tuned, and give me at least a full week of 2ft lefts before the next big swell, please? But I just heard a rumour that something’s pumping through around Friday…
Thanks Johnny for the extra pics!
Background Photo: by Mike Tittel