It takes about 6 hours and 45 minutes to make a Patagonia full suit. That’s about twice as long as it takes to make most wetsuits. (We know; we make ours in some of the same factories as our competitors.) Quality this good only comes with time and care. The difference is in the details.
Needle:Using the right needle is the key to a flawless seam and a beautiful wetsuit. We use a curved needle that’s grooved to minimize friction, minimising damage to the wetsuit material. We monitor the sewing process to ensure the needle never puts a hole all the way through the neoprene.
Thread:Using the right thread is critical to long-lasting performance with high-stretch fabrics. We use Tristar 60W – a strong, super thin thread that excels even under repeated flexion and requires a smaller needle puncture hole. this eliminates seam puckering and needle cutting.
Sewing:We never start or stop sewing a stitch mid-seam. all seams are sewn in one pass and only completed when they meet an intersecting seam where they can be secured by a knot and glue dot (externally) and a silicone dot (internally).
Blind-Stitching:We use a single-needle blind stitch on all external seams and some internal seams as reinforcement in high-stress locations. This stitch inter-loops itself on the surface and never puts a hole all the way through the neoprene. The width-to-length ratio of our stitching results in a clean, bulk-free seam that eliminates chafing and provides maximum flexibility in high-movement zones.
Zig-Zag Stitching:We use a zig-zag lock-stitch on our front-Zip full-Suit styles as they require high stretch in the entry system. We also employ zig-zag stitching on our front-Zip Spring-Suit styles along the hem of the sleeve and leg openings. The zig-zag lock-stitch acts like an accordion that can be adjusted either by making the stitch wider, narrower, longer or shorter depending on location and function. The back and forth movement of this stitch pattern also offers greater seam coverage, which is ideal for folding and finishing neoprene.
Internal Seam Reinforcements:Every critical point along intersecting internal seams is secured with a silicone reinforcement to prevent the seam from splitting and to enhance comfort in high abrasion areas. Every reinforcement is hand-placed and heat pressed to meet our high standards for quality.
External Seam Reinforcements:The thread at every critical point along intersecting external seams is carefully hand-knotted and secured with a dab of glue to prevent it from running. We do not punch holes all the way through the neoprene on any seam while sewing and knotting, and we leave no thread loose or exposed. this eliminates the need for external liquid seam sealing.
Bar Tack Reinforcements:We secure wrist and ankle cuffs and zipper facing with a 3/8” bar tack to prevent splitting and peeling. Because these areas are subjected to excessive tugging and pulling, they need extra reinforcement. They’re the only places on our wetsuits where the needle actually punctures all layers of the neoprene and fabrics. This is a proven industry method that yields solid results.
Seam Gluing, Bonding & Hand-Ironing:Most wetsuit manufacturers apply two coats of Tac cement when gluing and bonding seams – we apply three. Lab tests show this results in a stronger seam. Once sealed and bonded together, we inspect each seam to assure quality. Then we go further — we use a hand iron on the inside seams to flatten and melt any glue left over from the bonding process. This hand-ironing eliminates glue edges, enhancing comfort and durability.
Hand-Taping:Internal crotch seams are hand-taped for comfort and to prevent leakage.
Kneepads:Debossing, embossing, silkscreening or applying heat transfers to the neoprene around the knee requires excessive pressure at temperature, which can compromise protective, high-abrasion areas. We prefer to leave the neoprene unscarred – because we don’t want to compromise performance and durability.
Webbing & Shock Cords:All webbing and shock cords are hand cut with a heat knife and rounded off to prevent hard edges and fraying.